In an age dominated by ultra-fast fashion and an endless cycle of trends, the concept of a streamlined wardrobe is gaining traction.
Advocates argue that the mental and environmental rewards of owning fewer, well-curated items far outweigh the fleeting dopamine rush of excessive consumption.
With billions of garments produced annually and their durability and quality declining, many are questioning if less could truly be more.
Dieter Rams, in his 1994 book Weniger, Aber Besser ("Less, but Better"), championed minimalism in design. His philosophy resonates strongly with today’s fashion landscape, where overproduction and overconsumption have reached alarming levels. Research reveals that individuals now purchase five times more clothing than in the 1980s, often wearing items just seven to ten times before discarding them.
This shift stems from targeted advertisements, social media-fueled trends, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion, which prioritizes quantity over quality. While new clothes undeniably bring a sense of excitement, this fleeting joy often leaves consumers feeling manipulated and dissatisfied.
Tiffanie Darke, a fashion writer and sustainability advocate, believes the desire for novelty in fashion can align with sustainability. Through her Rule of Five campaign, which limits new clothing purchases to five annually (excluding second-hand items), she demonstrates that mindful consumption benefits both mental well-being and the planet. Many participants report relief from the pressure to constantly buy, along with a newfound appreciation for their existing wardrobe.
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At the core of Darke’s philosophy lies the capsule wardrobe—a carefully curated collection of foundational, timeless pieces. These items, often functional and high-quality, simplify daily dressing while allowing for personal expression. Darke recommends the 80/20 rule: 80% of the wardrobe comprises classic basics, while 20% includes expressive pieces that reflect individual style.
For example, Darke’s own wardrobe includes staples like a white cotton top, a smart jacket, and comfortable trousers, complemented by playful items like gold trousers and a crochet skirt. She emphasizes the importance of tailoring a capsule wardrobe to suit one’s lifestyle and climate, starting with the items worn most frequently.
Fashion director Kay Barron advocates for a thorough wardrobe review, or "wardrobe edit," as a starting point for mindful shopping. This involves trying on every item, assembling outfits, and identifying gaps in one’s wardrobe. Barron advises creating a list of missing essentials to guide future purchases and avoid impulsive buys for last-minute occasions.
The wardrobe edit also reveals forgotten treasures. Rediscovering beloved items from the past can inspire creativity and help adapt older pieces to current trends. Barron notes that denim, for instance, regularly cycles back into style, making it worth holding onto various cuts and styles.
For those seeking variety without the environmental toll of new purchases, clothing rental services like By Rotation and Wardrobe HQ offer a sustainable alternative. These platforms allow individuals to experiment with styles and colors without committing to ownership. As Barron points out, rentals provide a low-pressure way to test bold choices, like her recent pair of lime-green heels, before fully integrating them into a wardrobe.
Darke also highlights services like Save Your Wardrobe, which assist with mending or repurposing old garments, fostering a sense of connection to one’s clothing.
The shift toward a less-is-more wardrobe extends beyond aesthetics. Patrick Grant, designer and judge on The Great British Sewing Bee, explores the relationship between consumerism and happiness in his book Less: Stop Buying So Much Rubbish. Similarly, Melanie Rickey’s podcast The Enoughness emphasizes the joys of mindful consumption, highlighting stories from figures like chef Yotam Ottolenghi and sustainable fashion pioneers.
Rickey suggests that reducing consumption has ripple effects across other aspects of life, freeing up money, time, and mental space. This intentionality fosters self-esteem and enhances the enjoyment of existing possessions.
Darke agrees, underscoring that a minimalist approach isn’t about deprivation but about gaining clarity and empowerment. Limiting choices encourages reflection on personal identity and style, turning a sustainable wardrobe into an exercise in self-discovery.
Owning ten carefully chosen wardrobe items may seem limiting, but for many, it represents freedom—freedom from endless trends, wasteful consumption, and decision fatigue. By embracing a capsule wardrobe and focusing on quality over quantity, individuals can enjoy the psychological and financial rewards of intentional fashion, all while contributing to a more sustainable planet.